Editors' Note: Here is Theo Kalikow's recipe for Thanksgiving turkey stuffing, which first appeared on these pages in 2007 and has become an annual tradition. Only half the pleasure of this recipe comes from eating the stuffing; the other half comes from reading the recipe itself.

Italian chestnuts, about 1 pound or more. Boil the chestnuts at least 15 minutes. Leave in the water and take out a few at a time to peel and chop, otherwise they will get hard and ornery. You want to end up with about 1-2 cups chopped nuts. More is better.

If you're vegetarian, don't even read this part, just prepare about 1-2 cups vegetable broth or bouillon.

The rest of you, boil the turkey giblets in about 1 quart water with 1/2 bay leaf and some peppercorns, until done, about 1/2 hour. (You can use more water and seasonings so you have some for the stuffing and some to make gravy with.)

Chop up the giblets for the stuffing or the gravy or give some to the pet or eat them yourself and don't share.

Go on, you are sweating away in the kitchen while everyone else is at the football game, so enjoy.

Have a little cranberry sauce while you're at it.

Sauté one large onion, chopped, and 2 (or more) cloves garlic, chopped, until translucent. You can use butter, olive oil, or rendered chicken fat for sautéing.

You will need about 1 quart of good white bread crumbs.

Grate them yourself (or get the kids to do it) from stale French or Italian bread, or challah, or purchase some without a whole lot of seasoning already added.

Mix up the bread crumbs, the onion and garlic and chestnuts, and giblets if used, and moisten with the liquid.

Don't make the stuffing too moist or it will turn to paste. Salt and pepper to taste.

Fill turkey with stuffing but don't pack it in. That will make it heavy. If any stuffing does not fit in the turkey, or if there is no turkey in the picture, place stuffing in a covered ovenproof casserole and add a little more liquid, since it is not going to get any turkey juices.

Bake the stuffing, covered, about 1 hour at 350 degrees.