Hoarfrost icing the morning lawn, geese honking their way south and the sweet smell of wood smoke in the air -- it's autumn in New England. As poet John Keats wrote, the "season of mists and mellow fruitfulness" is upon us.

You can hike through the reddening woods to experience the glories of a Maine autumn. You can drive along some of the state's more scenic byways, or take in the view from atop Mt. Battie or the higher reaches of the landscape around Rangeley Lake.

Or you can eat the fall.

That's right, eat it. There's something about a Maine apple that's particularly evocative of autumn. They're crisp, as is the fall weather. They're red or gold or brown, as are the leaves on the maples, oaks and birches. They're sweet and tart, which is what these mornings feel like, as the sun edges around the cool morning mist, gilding the already-riotous colors of a Maine autumn.

You can drink a Maine autumn, too -- there's little more pleasing this time of year than a long slug of fresh cider. Or make some applesauce: boil cut-up apples with skin, seeds and all, then run through a food mill and add some sugar or honey -- and if you freeze it you can eat the autumn all winter long.

On Saturday, Oct. 18, the Maine Organic Farmers & Gardeners Association holds the Great Maine Apple Day at its headquarters in Unity. You can spend the day learning about the history, flavors and traditions of Maine apples; there will be experts who will identify that mysterious variety of apple that's been growing forever in your back forty.

You can pick apples at orchards, pluck them from your dooryard tree, or simply buy a taste of a Maine fall. Even the local mega-supermarkets -- usually filled with produce from the far-flung reaches of the globe -- feature Maine-grown apples this time of year.

Just remember: There's no excuse to eat a Washington or New Zealand apple right now. It's your "statriotic" duty to take a bite of the best Maine has to offer during this glorious season.