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Richmond chef is top lobster cook
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BY CRAIG CROSBY
Staff Writer
Kennebec Journal & Morning Sentinel 07/23/2008

AUGUSTA -- Margaret McLellan grew up helping her family haul lobsters from the water off Boothbay Harbor, so it makes sense that she would know how to prepare the famous crustaceans better than just about anyone else.

McLellan, corporate chef at Shucks Maine Lobsters in Richmond, was named Maine Lobster Chef of the Year during Tuesday's cookoff at the Blaine House.

"I grew up on a fishing boat," said McLellan, who continues to live in Boothbay. "It's a great honor, being a Mainer, to win this title and represent the industry."

Approximately 100 people -- including friends and family of the chefs and representatives of the lobster industry -- spent more than an hour making the rounds between the five tables where each of the finalists presented their culinary delights.

McLellan was named top lobster chef by a panel of four judges, comprised of fellow chefs, who scored the finalists' dishes on presentation, flavor, taste and texture.

Those who attended the reception were asked to vote for the "People's Choice" award. That went to Lawrence Klang, chef de cuisine at Natalie's Camden Harbour Inn in Camden.

Zeph Belanger of the Camden's Hartstone Inn was the judges' first runner-up; and Pete Murphy, executive chef at Boothbay Harbor's Historic Russell House Restaurant and Tavern, was second runner-up.

Joshua Clark, chef de cuisine at Camden's Atlantica Restaurant, also was selected as a top-five finalist.

Judges evaluated a record number of recipes on complexity and ingenuity to select the five finalists chosen for the cookoff, said Dane Somers, executive director of the Maine Lobster Promotion Council, which, along with Maine Food and Lifestyle magazine, sponsored the event.

"The competition was really impressive, and that speaks volumes for the high regard that so many chefs and their customers have for Maine lobster," Somers said. "I thought the dishes were absolutely fantastic. These are world-class presentations by world-class chefs."

McLellan presented Maine lobster purse with wild Maine compliments and pea shoot salad.

McLellan, who also is the corporate chef for Native Maine Produce in Westbrook, said she specifically developed the dish to use Maine-grown and -produced products. The crepes were made with Aroostook flour, Maine sea salt and eggs, milk, butter and tarragon from Maine farms. The lobster filling was raw Shucks Maine lobster claw and knuckle meat with butter and goat cheese all from Maine. The presentation included Maine-grown blueberries, Crown of Maine heirloom chantenay carrots and Maine maple syrup.

"I wanted to do a dish that incorporated only Maine ingredients," McLellan said. "You can find anything you want to put on your table within a 20-mile radius of your home."

McLellan said Shucks of Maine lobster, which uses a water pressurizing process to peel raw lobster meat from the shell, allows her to create a more tender filling than she could have by using meat pulled from steamed lobsters.

"I'm starting with a clean pallet," she said. "It doesn't get any better."

The competition was an important tool for displaying the delicious potential of raw lobster, particularly in skilled hands such as McLellan's, said Charlie Langston, chief operating officer of Shucks Maine Lobster.

"It's just an amazing texture," he said. "It's a great way to show the unusual aspects of our lobster."

Sponsored by the Maine Lobster Promotion Council and Maine Food and Lifestyle magazine, the cookoff was the first since 2004.

The contest was resumed this year to promote the lobster industry, but also to honor those who prepare those lobsters.

About 75 percent of lobsters from Maine are served in a restaurant, Somers said.

"These are creative professionals," he said. "An event like this gives the chefs recognition. It's for the industry and everyone enjoys it."

Craig Crosby -- 623-3811, Ext. 433

ccrosby@centralmaine.com

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